The Renaissance was an explosion of art, architecture literature and scientific discovery. Florence was ground zero, with wealthy supporters and a loosening of Catholic Church control.
We felt lucky to have 5 days in Florence as there is so much to see. We pace ourselves in places like this, visiting just a few things each day, starting early in the morning, staying away from the heat and tourist crowds in the afternoons, then venturing out again in the late afternoon.
First of course, food. Great pizzas and pastas and of naturally, gelato. We are now feeling somewhat skilled in comparing food from place to place. For Gelato, Oteleg was our favorite in Rome, but La Carraia won in Florence. And Osteria Vecchio Vicolo for long pizza and Osteria Filetto d’Oro for some great artisanal pasta in Florence. There are lots of great restaurants with great food here, these are just a few places we tried and liked.
Each morning our little hotel served us “toasties”, wonderful pastries, juice, fruit and yogurt. We got used to that really quickly and we saved part of the bounty to eat for lunch each day, as well.
Around Florence
We again began our visit with a walking tour, which gave us some insight into the history of the city from Roman times onward, it’s importance as a center of trade, the dominance of the Medici family, and the birthplace of the Renaissance with Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, and Botticelli among many others.
Little wine doors throughout Florence have served the citizens in various ways. Originally used by wealth families to sell wine directly to the public, avoiding taxes. Later they were used for commerce to maintain social distancing during the plague, and more recently, during Covid-19.
And this door knocker seems to say, stay away…
The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore
One of the largest cathedrals in the world, this massive project was started in 1296. Construction lasted about 140 years, so styles changed during construction. The dome was designed by Filippo Brunelleschi and completed in 1496, and remains an engineering marvel for its time. Interestingly, the facade was only completed in the 19th century.
It is hard to capture the scale of this project in a photo. Follow this link to see more about it.
Views from the Top
We climbed the Duomo bell tower for some great views of the city. We have climbed towers of various kinds all over the world. I am constantly amazed at how tall a tower can be created simply by stacking rocks. What a great view of the city from this bell tower.
Florence Duomo Opera
There is a museum where they keep some of the original items from the Duomo to protect and preserve them. Here are the original doors to the baptistry. Notice that styles had changed in the over 50 years it took to make the doors.
Michelangelo’s famed Pieta dell’Opera del Duomo in Florence. It was never finished, and recent analysis indicates there were flaws in the marble, perhaps leading Michaelangelo to abandon the project
Donatello’s sculpture depicting an emaciated Mary, her supposed state as a penentant follower of Christ after his death.
Equipment used to build the dome, and a model showing the interior engineering design of the dome, an engineering marvel for its time.
Close-up photos of two areas of a massive silver alter covering, used once a year in the Duomo for Mass.
The Baptistery
Just as spectacular as the Duomo is the Baptistery right in front of the Duomo. The interior dome is currently being rennovated so we couldn’t see it, but the floor and parts of the interior walls were visible.
Here’s a collage showing some of the many different designs on the floor, which Susie loved, as they reminded her of quilt blocks:
and a few interior photos
Uffizi Gallery
This is a truly large gallery with a staggering amount of artwork. Eyes glaze over after awhile of walking through these immense halls, where even the halls are a work of art.
Here is just a sampling. Botticceli”s “Primavera”, and Caravaggio’s “Sacrifice of Isaac”.
I just like the turban on this guy. And then more famous paintings, including Venus by Titian.
Any more beauty…
Cool painting on a shield by Carivaggio depicting Medusa after realizing she no longer has a body connected to her head
And Botticelli’s famous Birth of Venus, and a room full of tourists looking at the painting.
Galileo Museum
I took a solo trip to see this museum, which was located right next to the Ufizzi Gallery.
Here are two telescopes built by Galileo, and a reproduction of a clock that he designed.
Clocks, adding machines, microscopes, surveying transoms, armillary sphere with a huge amoung of concentric gears to calculate the movement of planets, all chronicalling the explosion of scientific tools and understanding. Really interesting to me, but maybe not so much for others.
Accadamia Gallery
This is another collection of art, which is best known as the home of Michaelangelo’s David. Here is a sample of art, old musical instruments, tapestries, and the line of people we saw when exiting, as they were waiting to get in. It pays to get out early in tourist season, and have timed tickets.
And then there is David. Michaelangelo’s portrayal of David is different from other artists’depictions, as it shows David preparing his slingshot before the fight. pouch with rock in left hand, handles of the sling in his right hand, about ready to wind up to throw. Plus he is stark naked, inspired by Greek and Roman statues, and not typical of statues intended to be placed on a cathedral. It is one of those works of art that is so famous that you think it won’t live up to the hype (like the Mona Lisa), but it really is spectacular.
Overlooking Florence
Views from across the river on the hill where San Miniato Cathedral is located. We hiked up there not only for the views, but also to attend Vespers at the cathedral, where each day monks do the service in Gregorian chant.
Even spreading out our visit of 5 days, we felt like we could have stayed much longer to see more than just the highlights, and just enjoy the city at a slower pace. Maybe we’ll be back someday, but there is a lot of world still to discover.
Next up: 8 days walking along the Via Francigena, an ancient pilgramage route from Cantebury England to Rome, Italy. We are just walking an 85 mile section from a small town called Altopascio, southward to Siena, through the rolling hills of Tuscany.
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