We enjoy going on multi-day walks, meaning starting at point A and taking several days to walk to point B. Some have been physically demanding, like the Inca Trail, climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro, or backpacking a section of the Appalachian Trail. Now, we are more drawn to long, more or less horizontal hikes like the Cotswolds, or one of the pilgrimage routes in Europe, or walking the Levadas on the island of Madeira. A couple years ago we did a 180 mile section of the Portuguese Camino de Santiago, so we were looking forward to walking a different pilgrimage route, this time in Italy: The Via Francigena.
The Via Francigena
The Via Francigena ( fran-CHEE- jen-ah) is an old pilgrimage route that begins in Canterbury, England and finishes in Rome, Italy. The route is first mentioned in writings from the 8th century AD. The best early record of traveling the route was made by Sigeric, the Archbishop of Canterbury in the 10th Century. Only in recent years has this route been remapped and supported by the government and volunteer organizations. This was due in part to the increasing popularity of pilgrims walking the several major Caminos that finish in Santiago de Compostella, Spain.
The whole route is 1056 miles and hard-core hikers can finish in 50 days, averaging 21 miles a day. Susie chose a 75 mile section in Tuscany, from Altopascio to Siena. On the map above, Altopascio is just below Lucca. We did this in 8 days, with a rest day in the middle. We aren’t hard-core hikers anymore and we have lots of time.
Many pilgrims stay in hostels, which are inexpensive communal accommodations with dormitories for sleeping, shared bathrooms and common rooms. We chose to stay in small hotels and AirBnB’s, and one Seminary. Private rooms and bathrooms are worth the expense to us.
Many of our accomodations were in the oldest parts of town, so the building were very old and the rooms had been renovated to squeeze in private bathrooms. Showers are generally small in Europe anyway, but we had some really small ones.
Plans vs Reality
We didn’t really know what to expect, as the Via Francigina is not walked by many pilgrims. It turned out to be a beautiful walk, the accommodations were charming, the villages we passed through were beautiful, the countryside was spectacular. The food was awesome (though we had way too much of ham and cheese on focaccia). We only met a handful of other pilgrims along the way, and were passed by a few bike pilgrims, as well. We were fortunate on the weather too. Some days were a bit warm, but we didn’t have to deal with rain and mud.
Each of the villages we stayed in were really interesting. Many had day-tourists that arrived by bus around noon, probably from Florence or Siena. They were in and out in an hour or two so by late afternoon we had these locations to ourselves.
We took photos and lots of short video clips along the way. I strung together the videos and some of the photos into a movie to help us remember the trip. Maybe a few potential pilgrims would find this interesting. Maybe a few friends. Remember, the primary purpose of this blog is so we remember the things we have done. You, the casual reader, can come along for the ride!
It would have been expensive to have our luggage moved from town to town, so Dave traveled by bus from Florence to Siena to drop off our suitcases, which we would not see for the next 9 days. Then we went by train to our starting point of Altopascio.
Traveling Light
The smaller the load, the easier the hiking. We each had one small backpack containing one change of clothes and extra shoes or sandals, a poncho, toiletries and first aid kit, some snacks, charging block and cables to charge phones and watches, water and trekking poles.
Each morning we packed up and walked to the next location. After checking into our lodging we would shower, put on the clean clothes and hand wash and hang-dry the dirty clothes and rest a bit. Then find some dinner, relax, read or walk around exploring, then go to sleep. The next morning, get up, pack the now dry clean clothes and other items and repeat. It is a simple existence with few posessions and a daily goal of just enjoying a walk to the next place.
Each day we walked through the rolling countryside and some towns, mostly on trails and partly on roads. The jasmine was in bloom throughout the walk. We daily passed many vineyards, olive groves and fields of grain or hay. There was more forested area than expected as well. Fortunately there are public water spigots scattered throughout the path, as marked on the trail maps.
Each village we stayed in has a long history. We tended to stay in the centers of the towns, in building originally constructed in medieval times, but recently renovated.
Here are some photos and notes on the places we stayed and the sights along the trail in between.
Altopascio
We started in Altopascio, which is a small town near Lucca. It was founded in the 11th century as a protected stop on the Via Francigena. Traveling pilgrimage routes in the Middle Ages was a dangerous and difficult journey, so various protected hostels were established to aid pilgrimages. Some of the original protective walls are still visible in Altopascio and are incorporated into the walls of existing buildings.
Day 1: Walking to Ponte a Cappiano, 9 miles.
Ponte a Cappiano
This little village is named for the fortified bridge built by the Medici family in the 16th century. There was an earlier bridge at this location that was destroyed in the 14th century due to conflicts between Lucca and Florence.
Day 2: The Walk to San Miniato, 9 miles
San Miniato
A commanding medieval tower on the hill has a panoramic view of the surrounding area. There has been a community here since prehistoric times. The Romans had a garrison here.
We stayed in a portion of a Seminary that is now a very spartan hotel. Other parts of the building are still in use as a Seminary.
Day 3: Walking to Gambassi Terme, 15 miles
Gambassi Terme
This is not a tourist town, but it retains some streets and buildings from medieval times. We stayed in a former church that was recently renovated into hotel rooms. The hiking was beautiful, but longer and hotter than ideal.
Day 4: Walking to San Gimignano, 9 miles
miles
San Gimignano
This is a well known tourist destination, due to the many tower-houses built by wealthy families as a symbol of their wealth. At one time there were 72 towers here, now there are around 12 towers remaining. We spent an extra day here to rest up and explore and really enjoyed the beauty and ambiance. And the food. Pasta, pizza, gelato, repeat.
Day 5: Walking to Colle di Val d’Elsa, 8 miles
Colle di Val d’Elsa
Fortified medieval city on a hill overlooking the Elsa river. Really beautiful.
Day 6: Walking to Monteriggioni, 11 miles
On the way out of Colle, we passed through a farmer’s market with some nice looking produce. The food in Italy is so very delicious, in large part due to the just picked from the garden ingredients. We walked several miles along the Elsa river, which is green due to dissolved calcium carbonate from the limestone. This part of the path was magical.
Monteriggioni:
Monteriggioni is a small medieval walled village. The wall and towers are mostly still standing.
Day 7: Short Walk to Punto Sosta la Villa, 4 miles
Punto Sosta la Villa
Punto Sosta la Villa is an old farmhouse with a few guest rooms. Eccentric owners make this worth at least a rest stop for pilgrims that continue on to Siena. They have a fleet of bathtubs in the backyard were they grow some vegetables. They only accept cash, so the owner was kind enough to drive me to the nearest ATM. The room (well the bed) was not the best, but the very fresh home cooked meals were fantastic.
Day 8: Walk to Siena, 9 miles
Siena:
Beautiful city with famous towers, the yearly horse races in the main plaza (go to YouTube to watch one – it’s wild), and an impressive cathedral and museums.
We spent three days in Siena before making our way back to Rome for a night, a flight to Calgary Canada and a stay in an airport hotel, then to Las Vegas and home to St George.
What a great trip, starting with New York City, then on to Rome, Naples, Pisa and Cinque Terre, Florence, and this long walk through Tuscany. From crowded tours at the Vatican, to hikes in the costal hills above Cinque Terre, to solitude walking the Via Francigena. So much good food, good gelato, beautiful sights, the famous ruins of Pompeii, works of art in museums and works of God in the countryside. We look forward to our next (as yet unplanned) adventure!
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