This is a much delayed entry as we finished the walk at the end of June. So much to explain….
O Cebreiro to Fonfria
From O Cebriero, we walked town to Fonfria. It was another beautiful day. We had a communal dinner with other Albergue guests. These meals are interesting as we get to talk to people from many different places.
Fonfria is a small village with dairy cows kept just across the street from our Albergue. It was a warm night so we kept our windows open as there were somewhat functional screens on the windows. However we both had mosquito bites in the morning. I killed at least 7 mosquitoes in the room, several containing a bit of our blood. The payback was oddly satisfying.
Fonfria to Samos
This was an alternate Camino route that we chose. This route was a bit longer than the standard path, but was more scenic along the way. Also, there is a massive monastery in Samos worth seeing and visiting.
Samos to Sarria: Taxis, Doctors and Decisions
This is where the story takes a twist. At dinner in Fonfra, I noticed my left foot wasn’t working as normal. At first I thought the muscle just might be tired from the day of walking. It didn’t get better during the 13 mile stage from Fonfria to Samos. After some internet searching and a consultation with a teledoc, we took a taxi to Lugo to talk to doctors at a hospital. The consensus was that I needed to stop the walk and rest, plus take some prescription anti-inflamatory drugs.
Out of an abundance of caution we decided that I would fly home to have a more thorough examination and begin whatever therapy was recommended. However, since it wasn’t an emergency, we also decided that Susie would stay to finish the walk. Both were good calls.
At home, further investigation showed the issue would resolve on it’s own, coupled with strengthening exercises. Meanwhile, Susie was able to finish the walk.
Sarria to Mercadoiro for Susie (and Madrid for Dave)
In the morning, I took the train to Madrid and flew home the next day. Susie continued the walk.
Sarria is the starting point for many pilgrims, as this is the minimum distance to recieve the Compostela Certificate in Santiago. The long-distance pilgrims are joined by school groups, families, and day hikers. This becomes a different experience than mingling with the relatively few pilgrims that have walked weeks and weeks to get to Sarria. Since I wasn’t there, I am citing Susie’s daily Facebook post from here on out:
Dave took the train to Madrid this morning and will fly home tomorrow. I walked my first day without him and it was strange and lonely. When we walked together, we tried to point out beauty and tender mercies to each other, and I found myself wanting to share what I was experiencing with him many times.
The trail is much more crowded now, as many people start their journey in Sarria. It was fun to see families walking together, as well as many school and friend groups.
Spain is experiencing another heat wave, so walking was very sweaty. Almost all the places we’ve stayed in don’t have A/C, and the windows don’t have screens on them, so we have a choice: windows closed means sweating all night; windows open means we might catch a breeze, but have bugs biting us. Last night I hid under my sheet, but apparently I left my pinky finger out to get chomped on.
Meanwhile, I was in Madrid. I attended church that day and happened to find some of the BYU Study Abroad group that we had walked with on the third day of our adventure! They had finished a couple weeks ahead of us and they were in Madrid for other study abroad activities.
Mercadoiro to Castromayor
We’ve left the big mountains of the Camino behind, but are by no means finished with climbing. Thus far, the past several days have consisted of lots of walking up and down over rolling hills.
The heat wave continues, and walking uphill in the open is a trial, but is usually rewarded with a small forest of trees and a breeze at the top.
I continue to miss Dave, but am trying to be friendly and helpful, especially with new walkers, and continue to enjoy the scenery and the spirit of the Camino.
Castromayor to Palas de Rei
I can’t believe I have only five more walking days. One of the things I like about multi day trips like this is how simple life becomes without the daily distractions of normal life. Everything I need is in my small backpack. All I do every day is eat, walk, shower, laundry, sleep. Next day I do the same thing. About once a week on rest days it feels extravagant to have a whole suitcase of stuff available.
While walking, I try to notice the beauty around me, and to count my blessings. I try to not focus on mistakes of the past, or worry about the future, but just savor the present.
Palas de Rei to Melide
A big rain storm swept through Galicia last night and with it came the end of the heat wave. It has rained off and on all day and looks to continue through tomorrow.
Even walking in the rain was preferable to the heat. Everything is fresh and the air is clean. And seeing a little dog wearing a rain poncho made my day.
Melide to Arzua
What a glorious walking day! I have loved these Galician forests and hills. The weather was breezy, in the 70’s, and the clouds were a spectacular backdrop.
In addition to farms and fields of grazing livestock are forests of oak, elm, and now fragrant eucalyptus groves. These last 50 kilometers must be a destination for runners, as I was passed by many today (and before today, none).
Arzua to A Brea
Leaving Azúra this morning felt like the fourth of July at Disneyland. I was constantly passing or being passed. There were lines for food, for stamps, for the bathroom. I certainly can’t begrudge the crowd since I am a part of it. We all want to enjoy this special place.
As the day wore on, and the crowd spread out, there were still quiet moments to be had on the trail. I especially loved the sound of the wind rushing through the forests and the many flowers bordering our path.
A Brea to Lavacolla
Tomorrow I will walk the last few of the almost 500 miles into Santiago de Compostela. When conversing with other pilgrims, a question that comes up often is, “Why are you walking the Camino?”.
A while back Dave and I met a man who was born in Germany, but has lived many years in the Canary Islands. He told us this was his 15th Camino, and showed us the dates on his scallop shell (highlighted in red means twice). I asked him why he keeps walking the Camino, and he said, “I don’t know” which I thought was odd because there must be some reason he keeps doing it. After a pause, he threw open his arms at the gorgeous view in front of us and said, “This is why.”
I can now relate with that. Walking the Camino has enriched my life physically, mentally, and spiritually. I feel physically fit and strong. Walking in nature fills me with joy and awe. I feel closer to God and feel so much gratitude to Him for this beautiful world and my place in it. I can see why people want to experience this over and over again.
Lavacolla to Santiago de Compostela
I made it!
I got kinda busy and forgot to post my last day on the Camino. Those last few miles felt bittersweet; I was saddened that the end of my journey was here, yet happy for the accomplishment and knowing I’d be going home to friends and family soon.
Thanks to those who have followed along on FB and offered love and encouragement.
Time to plan the next adventure!
Some sights in Madrid
Susie had some time in Madrid to visit Palacio Real de Madrid
The Compostela
All along the Camino we collected stamps and dates on Credentials. These came from places we stayed, churches, restaurants and some artists that just set up shop along the Camino. These are shown at the Compostela office in Santiago to prove the walk and to obtain the Compostela, documenting the completion of the journey.
What’s next? Well some down time in St George, some camping, visiting family. And in September, we have tickets to go back and finish the Camino, starting in Samos since we skipped that leg, so about 75 miles from Santiago. I really want to finish this part of the Camino. We’ll just count the 11 week gap as a just a string of rest days before continuing on. Susie is returning to repeat this section with me, but then we will continue on to Finesterre, another 8 days or so of walking to “the end of the earth”. Why not? We will have walked across the top of Spain starting from inside France, westward across the Pyrannese mountains into Spain, and continued westward to the ocean, so truly across the whole of Spain!
It is just a little extension (the short purple route to the coast) to the really long trip we will have done (the green route from St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela.
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