Naples (Napoli)
We took a high speed train to Naples (300 kph, or 186 mph), which we almost missed due to traffic in Rome holding up our bus. A slow bus to a fast train. We spent 4 nights in an Airbnb near the train station in Naples. This was an older building on the edge of a somewhat sketchy neighborhood.
The Iffy AirBnB
Check out the entry door to the building, and the security system inside the door to our apartment! After staying in the super charming area of Trastevere in Rome, our first impression of Naples was not the best. And our view out the window was not one shown on the Airbnb site photos. Being independent travelers on a budget is often not very glamorous.
A Walking Tour
As we usually do when we greet a new city, we did a walking tour of the downtown area of Naples, and it really was much nicer. Fountains, piazza’s (plazas), shopping galleries, palaces and opera houses, pedestrian shopping streets, the Spanish Quarter, all very nice and all much safer than Naples was even just 20 years ago. But still a bit chaotic.
Maradona played for the Napoli SSC from 1984-1991, and brought success to the team during those years. He remains like a soccer god to the people of Naples. His jersey and likeness are everywhere.
Naples claims to be the birthplace of the pizza, so we were obliged to try some. Twice. Best margherita pizza ever!
This is also the home of the Sfogliatella, a sea shell shaped pastry filled with sweet ricotta cheese. Really yummy and quite filling.
Pompeii
We signed up for a half-day tour of nearby Pompeii, and were shuttled there by a van where we met with our colorful tour guide, Franchesco, or Frankie as he liked to be called. He almost always ended an explanation of events or objects with such phrases as, “Mama Mia!” or “Fantastico!” or “Engineers!” (which, of course, made Dave happy). And Pompeii really was an engineering and artistic marvel.
Our tour started when the gates to the National Park opened, which was fortunate as the number of tourists increased as the day progressed.
Pompeii was larger than I expected. In our three hours we only saw the highlights. Here is a scale model of the ruins, made in the 1800s and seen at the Archeological Museum in Naples.
Before the Vesuvius eruption in 79 AD, this was an active seaside town of 20,000 people. The two day eruption covered the city in many feet of ashes, rocks and noxious gases, and filled up the bay, increasing the distance to the Mediterranean by two kilometers.
The second and third stories of buildings were often made of wood and stucco and were destroyed, but the streets and a lot of the first story walls remain standing. The plaster on the walls is mostly gone, but some did survive, with fresco paintings on the walls of some residences and businesses.
Many of the frescoes and sculptures and other artifacts were taken to museums. But there remained beautiful tables, basins, fountains, personal residences, gambling rooms, snack bars, bath houses, all frozen in time.
The streets are layed out in a grid, with a main road that lies at a diagonal. Streets and curbs and walls are all made of stone. I liked the pedestrian crossing points allowing water and carts to flow down the streets, but with stepping stones for pedestrians to stay clear of the water and muck.
There was indoor plumbing with lead pipes and valves to operate fountains and fill pools.
Archaeology Museum
The excavations of Pompeii began in the early 1700’s, and many of the statues and artifacts are at the Archaelogical museum in Naples that we also visited. Beautiful bronze statues, lots of marble statues, but also household items, like plates, containers, beautiful glass work, keys. Even dice for gambling (one of which was actually weighted).
Chillingly, there were also plaster casts of people who died in Pompeii. Their bodies decomposed, leaving cavities in the ash. Archeologists filled the cavities with plaster to create a kind of sculpture of the dead. It was so fascinating to see a rare but tragic moment in time captured in time.
Our visit to Pompeii truly was Fantastico!
Pompeii has only been about two thirds excavated, and new discoveries happen every day. Here is a BBC report from January describing a new find.
Back in Naples, we also attended church in the local congregation. We enjoy spending time with fellow members throughout the world, when get the opportunity.
Next up, a day in Pisa, then on to Cinque Terre for some views and hikes, weather permitting.
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