Besides the 5 hikes we took as described in our last blog post, we spent some time exploring Funchal and the eastern part of Madeira. And eating, we did some eating.
Bolo do Caco
There are some local food specialties including grilled meat skewers (excellent), and Bolo do Caco, a type of garlic bread. It’s a round nearly flat bread, traditionally cooked on a flat hot stone, then sliced open and (in its basic form) smeared with a butter/garlic/herb mixture. A great accompaniment to a meal. We have been eating too much of it. There is also a Bolo de miel, which is a round dense cake traditionally made with molasses but more recently, with honey. The cakes are for sale in all the tourist stores, and Bolo do Caco is on neary every restaurant’s menu. Super fresh and yummy.
We were in the northern town of Santana during the annual Madeira Day, celebrating settling the island in 1419, and in the 1970’s, gaining autonomy under the Portuguese governmental system. Food, traditional costumes, dancing and singing and generally just having a good time. The traditional dress is from the early 19th century. Note the funnel shaped hats (Carapuça), a fashion statement that has yet to gain a global following.
We went to the villages above Funchal twice. Once by gondola, and once by bus with a driver trained by the Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride school of driving. We spent an afternoon at the Monte Palace Madeira. The palace is closed and not that impressive actually, but the gardens are fabulous. The only downside is well, the downside: it is located on the steep hillsides above Madeira, so lots of up and downhill walking.
Monte Palace Madeira grounds
The Carreiros do Monte
These sleds are wicker baskets mounted on two greased wooden runners, occupied by two unsuspecting tourists and launched down a steep paved street while guided by two men hanging onto the back of the basket and standing on the ends of the runners. They have been doing this for at least 100 years. Originally a method for residents to get down to Funchal quickly. Now a thrill ride of sorts for tourists. What could go wrong?
Machico
We spent two nights in this seaside town. There was no natural beach here so they brought in some sand from Morocco to make one.
Next up, some time in the Azores!
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