Italy seems to be near the top of most people’s list of travel destinations. I’ve been to norther Italy a couple times, and we did spend a day in Milan awhile back. Susie was in Florence and Siena with her Mom and aunt over 30 years and passed through Rome on her semester abroad 45 years ago. Together we are finally going together to spend a few weeks seeing the sights, do some walking, and of course, some eating.
But first, New York City…
On our way to Rome, we spent a few days in NYC to visit Carine, our daughter who is a travel nurse. She is living in upper Harlem and working at a hospital on the upper east side. Together, we did a walking tour of Harlem and ate some soul food at Sylvia’s Restaurant. Interesting tour, and good food, though Susie’s meatloaf recipe is better. The black-eyed peas were really good, as was the corn bread.
We took some long walks in mid-town and Central Park
And spent a few hours in the Metroplitan Museum of Art (The MET), with docent lead tours
Arrival in Rome
After a sleepless night/morning on a red-eye from JFK to Rome, we checked into our Airbnb, a quirky apartment in Trastevere, a great little neighborhood just across the Tiber river from the many highlight destinations in central Rome.
While this is technically still shoulder season, Rome felt pretty packed, especially around any of the must-see locations. We took a tour of the Colloseum and adjacent Forum. How impressive, even after nearly all of the marble was scavaged to make St Peter’s Basillica. Moving though the throngs of other tourists was tiring and distracting. Similar to an ill-timed visit we made to Disneyland on a 4th of July many years ago.
A walking tour and other wanderings took us to other interesting locations. The spot where Cesear was assisinated, several Caravaggio painting, the Pantheon, such an impressive 2000 year old domed structure, the fresco on the ceiling of the Chiesa di Sant’Ignazio di Loyola. The Piazza del Popolo, the overrun Trevi Fountain and equally packed Spanish Steps. A whole lot to take in over just a few days…
Random sights while walking around:
Vatican Tour
We took a tour in Vatican City. Once again, huge crowds, which made the whole experience a little tiring as we shuffled through the Vatican Museum, eventually finding our way into the Sistine Chapel, which was packed, and then out again.
Don’t go on a Monday (when many other museums are closed), do go early (we did), and avoid high season altogether. Also, we were there on the first day that the Sistine Chapel was reopened, following the Conclave to elect a new Pope. Signing up with a tour group is a good idea, even just to avoid the hours long line of people that just walk up to get in. The Vatican Museum is huge, so we only saw some of the highlights. The Sistine Chapel is indeed beautiful. No photos allowed, so here is a link to an interactive view of the Sistine Chapel.
St Peter’s Basilica was somewhat less crowded and was spectacular as well.
Rome Temple
We took a side trip to spend some time in the Rome Temple, which is on the outskirts of Rome. One expensive taxi ride out there, and a cheap bus ride back. Beautiful and peaceful experience and nice to be away from the crowds in Rome for a few hours.
Trastevere Treats
In our neighborhood (Travestere), we found two things to recommend. First, a little cookie bakery with the best cookies. Non-descript, you wouldn’t notice it when walking by. But after we discovered it, it turns out this is a regular stop on walking tours and food tours through the Trastevere neighborhood. There was even a picture of Rick Steves on the wall when he visited the place.
And the other is perhaps the best gelato we have ever had. Otaleg is the name of the store. (Gelato spelled backwards). Best chocolate gelato hands down, and everything else we tried was excellent.
We also had a great pasta dinner in a restaurant just around the corner from the Spanish steps, and down the street from the Trevi Fountain.
Jewish Quarter
On our last walk back to our Airbnb, we walked through the Jewish Quarter (formally ghetto). Like so many other cities in Europe, the Jewish community was part of Rome (well, a segregated part), until Nazi Germany had other plans for the Jews. There are brass placards embedded in the cobblestone in front of many houses, one for each person taken and killed by the Nazi machine. We have seen these somber memorials in other cities in Europe.
Next up: Naples (Napoli), home of the original pizza, and Pompei, hotter than a pizza oven.
Leave a Reply